|July 25, 1806
The weather still continues cold cloudy and rainy, the wind also has blown all day with
more than usual violence for the N.W. this morning we eat the last of our birds and
cows, I therefore directed Drewyer and J. Fields to take a couple of the horses and
proceed to the S.E. as far as the main branch of Maria's river [Two Medicine
River.] which I expected was at no great distance and indeavour to kill some
meat; they set out immediately and I remaned in camp with R. Fields to avail myself of
every opportunity to make my observations should any offer, but it continued to rain and I
did not see the sun through the whole course of the day R. Fields and myself
killed nine pige[ons] which lit in the trees near our camp on these
we dined. late in the evening Drewyer and J. Fields returned the former had killed a
fine buck on which we now fared sumptuously. they informed me that it was about 10 miles
to the main branch of Maria's River, that the vally formed by the river in that quarter
was wide extensive and level with a considerable quantity timber; here they found some
wintering camps of the natives and a great number of others of a more recent date or that
had from appearance been evacuated about 6 weeks; we consider ourselves extreemly
fortunate in not having met with these people. I determined that if tomorrow
continued cloudy to set out as I now begin to be apprehensive that I shall not reach the
United States within this season unless I make every exertion in my power which I shall
certainly not omit when once I leave this place which I shall do with much reluctance
without having obtained the necessary data to establish it's longitude as if the fates
were against me my chronometer from some unknown cause stoped today, when I set her to
going she went as usual.
July 25, 1806
|N. 20o W.
||mile to the head of a large Isd. in the middle
of the river passed an Island
||miles to a low clift in the Lard Side ps a large
|N. 25o E.
||mile under a Bluff passed a Creek at 1 /4
a mile I call rock creek a Ld.
||miles to <th> a high point of [blank]
on the <passed> Stard. Side passed the large Island at 1 mile and Islands
passed a Small river
|N. 20o W
||miles to a Lard. Clift on the Lard Side
passeded 3 islands
|N. 25o E
||m to the had of a Island in a Stard. bend
passed 4 islands
|N. 15o W.
||m to a Low black Bluff on the Lard Side
passed a large Brook on Lard. Side
|N. 60o East
||mile to a <Stard Side> Lard. Point Bluff [on
||mile to a point of wood on the Stard Side
opposit a Black bluff a high pt. of rocks a little [bank?] about 70 feet
high Passing under a Black Black Bluff on <for 3 miles> the lard Side passed a large
Brook at 1/4 of a mile on the Lard Side one at 5 mils one at 7 mils and a Small one
at 8 1/2 mils <to a point of wood> the Countrey to the Stard. open enterance
leavel plain for 6 miles & then riseing gradually to about 300 feet passed 6 islands
& several gravelly bars
|N. 65o East
||mils to Stard. Bend passed the pt of an
Island at 2 miles
||mile to Lard Bluffs below the Island
|N. 70o E
|| 2 1/2
||mils to a point of the Bluff which has
<felled in> Sliped in and filled up 1/3 of the Chanel on the top of this is a
yellowish Stone of 20 feet thick Passed a Brook and an island
|N. 80o E
||miles to the point of a Bluff on the Lard. Side
passd. Several Bars
|| 2 <3>
||miles to a Bluff lterly Sliped in on the Lard
Side opsd. the head of an Isld.
||mile to th lower point of a Isld on the Stard.
|N. 62o E
|| 3 <5>
||miiles to a point of a Lard Bluff passed
Lower point of the Island.
||miles to Pompys Tower 200 feet high and 400
yards in Secumfrance Situated in a low bottom on the Std. Side [blank]
Paces from the river which is imediately between this Tower & the hight on the Lard
Side-- from the top of this Tower the river as far as Can be seen is N. 66o
E <4> 5 miles to Clift point on the Lard Side passed a point of Clift at 2
miles on Lard. Side. passed the Enterance of [illegible] Creek at 9
Ms. This valley of a Baptiests Creek which falls in <4?> miles below is S 25o
East a Low Mountain is S. 15o E about 40 miles. The Rock mountans
covered with Snow is S W. The Little wolf mountaine which is but low is N. 55o
W. about 45 m a large dry Creek falls in on the opposit Side opposit this Tower.
The Countrey to the N. is ruged near the river. a range of high hills which appear
to run from South to North covered with pine at about 18 miles to the East to S. no
timber. N. a few low pine
|S. 60o E
||miles to the enterance of Baptiests Creek from
the Stard. and Camped passed the Clieft, on the Lard at 3 miles, Several Gravelly
July 25, 1806
We Set out at Sunrise and proceeded on very well for three hours. Saw a large gange of
Buffalow on the Lard Bank. I concluded to halt and kill a fat one, dureing which time Some
brackfast was ordered to be Cooked. we killed 2 Buffalow and took as much of their
flesh as I wished. Shields killed two fat deer and after a delay of one hour and a
half we again proceeded on. and had not proceeded far before a heavy shower of rain
pored down upon us, and the wind blew hard from the S W. the wind increased and the
rain <began> continued to fall. I halted on the Stard. Side had Some logs set up on [end?]
close together and Covered with deerskins to keep off the rain. and a large fire made to
dry ourselves. the rain continued moderately untill near twelve oClock when it
Cleared away and become fair. the wind Continued high untill 2 P M. I proceeded on
after the [NB: rain] lay a little and at 4 P M arived at a
remarkable rock situated in an extensive bottom on the Stard Side of the river & 250
paces from it. this rock I ascended and from it's top had a most extensive view in
This rock which I shall call Pompy's Tower is 200 feet high and 400 paces in
secumpherance and only axcessable on one Side which is from the N.E the other parts of it
being a perpendicular Clift of lightish Coloured gritty rock on the top there is a
tolerable Soil of about 5 or 6 feet thick Covered with Short grass. The Indians have made
2 piles of Stone on the top of this Tower. The nativs have ingraved on the face of this
rock the figures of animals &c. near which I marked my name and the day of the month
& year. [This sandstone formation is one-half mile north of Interstate
Highway 94, between the villages of Nibbe and Pompeys Pillar, and about twenty-eight miles
northeast of Billings. Apparently the first white man to see it was Francois-Antoine
Larocque (see November 27, 1804) on his trip to the Yellowstone in September 1805, some
ten months before Clark. Clark named the rock "Pompy's Tower" for little
Jean Baptiste Charbonneau, whom he had nicknamed "Pomp." In the 1814
history Biddle altered this to a more classical "Pompey's Pillar," the name
which has persisted. Clark's inscription of his name and date are still visible, the
only surviving physical evidence of the expedition along its route. In 1876 a soldier
participating in the campaign against the Sioux reportedly carved his name over the
"k," and when reprimanded declared that he did not believe that there had been a
white man in the country seventy years earlier. The inscription has since been deepened
and is now protected by shatterproof glass.] From the top of this Tower I
Could discover two low Mountains & the Rocky Mts. covered with Snow S W. one of
them appeard to be extenecive and bore S. 15o E. [The same bearing
appears in Biddle's history. On Clark's map however, "S. 15o
W. 40 m" is noted by Pompys Tower. On another of Clark's maps no bearing is given,
but a straight, dotted line runs from the tower southwesterly in the general direction of
the Pryor Mountains which are in fact southwest of Pompeys Pillar. The Bighorn Mountains
lie southeast of the position. The mountains to the northwest are the Bull Mountains, the
"Southern extremity" of which would be Dunn Mountain.] about 40 miles.
the other I take to be what the indians Call the Little wolf Mtn. I can only see
the Southern extremity of it which bears N 55o W about 35 Miles. The plains to
the South rise from the distance of about 6 miles the width of the bottom gradually to the
mountains in that derection. a large Creek [Fly Creek, "Shannons
River" after George Shannon of the party.] with an extencive Vally the
direction of which is S. 25o E. meanders boutifully through this plain. a
range of high land Covered with pine [Pine Ridge, just west of the Bighorn River.]
appears to run in a N. & S. direction approaching the river below. on the Northerly
Side of the river high romantic Clifts approach & jut over the water for Some distance
both above and below. a large Brook [Clark's "River Baptieste,"
present Pompeys Pillar Creek, which meets the Yellowstone directly opposite Pompeys
Pillar.] which at this time has Some running muddy water falls in to the
Rochejhone imediately opposit Pompys Tower. back from the river for Some distance on
that Side the hills are ruged & some pine back the plains are open and extensive.
after Satisfying my Self sufficiently in this delightfull prospect of the extensive
Country around, and the emence herds of Buffalow, Elk and wolves in which it abounded, I
decended and proceeded on a fiew miles, Saw a gang of about 40 Big horn animals fired at
them and killed 2 on the Sides of the rocks which we did not get. I directed the Canoes to
land, and I walked up through a crevis in the rocks almost inaxcessiable and killed 2 of
those animals one a large doe and the other a yearlin Buck. I wished very much to kill a
large buck, had there been one with the gang I Should have killd. him. dureing the
time the men were getting the two big horns which I had killed to the river I employed my
Self in getting pieces of the rib of a fish which was Semented within the face of the rock
this rib is [NB: about 3] inchs <diame> in
Secumpherance about the middle [NB: the fallen rock is near the
water-- the face of the rock where rib is in perpendr.-- 4
is. lengthwise, a little barb projects] it is 3 feet in length
tho a part of the end appears to have been broken off I have Several peces of
this rib the bone is neither decayed nor petrified but very rotten. [Gary
E. Moulton: Clark found the fossilized rib in the uppermost Cretaceous Hell Creek
Formation; the rib probably came from a terrestrial dinosaur. The most common terrestrial
dinosaurs of that period in this area were hadrosaurus, Triceratops, Albertosaurus, and
Tyrannosaurus, many examples of which have been found in the Hell Creek Formation.]
the part which I could not get out may be Seen, it is about 6 or 7 Miles below
Pompys Tower in the face of the Lard. Clift about 20 feet above the water. after
getting the big horn on board &C I proceeded on a Short distance and encamped [On
the south side of the Yellowstone just below the mouth of Fly Creek (Shannons River) and
about two miles northeast of the village of Pompeys Pillar.], an earlyer than I
intended on accout of a heavy cloud which was comeing up from the S. S W. and Some
appearance of a Violent wind. I walked out and killed a Small buck for his Skin which the
party are in want of for Clothes. about Sunset the wind blew hard from the W. and
Some little rain. I encamped on the Stard. side imediately below the enterance Shannons
River about 22 Yards wide, and at this time discharges a great portion of water which is
very Muddy. emence herds of Buffalow about our as it is now running time with those
animals the bulls keep Such a grunting nois which is very loud and disagreeable Sound that
we are compelled to Scear them away before we can Sleep. the men fire Several Shot
at them and Scear them away.
[Gary E. Moulton: Clark's route maps show great distortion of the
Yellowstone River bend between Billings and Pompeys Pillar, a distortion repeated in his
Western map of 1810 and its published version of 1814. This distortion appears also in the
courses and distances for the day, notably the first, which should be more nearly due
Course distance and
remarks July 25th 1806
|N. 20o W.
||to the head of a large Island in the middle of
the river, haveing passed an island.
||to a low Clift on the Lard. Side
passed a large Island
|N. 25o E.
||passing under the Lard Bluff, passed rock Creek [Five
Mile Creek which meets the Yellowstone in northeast Billings.] (Small) on
the Lard. Side but a Small quantity of water
|| 1 1/2
|N. 45o E.
||to a igh point of land on the Stard. Side,
passed a large island at 1 mile and Several Small islds. <N 6 W> passed the
enterance of a small river [EC: Pryor's Creek] [Present Pryor Creek which
meets the Yellowstone just southwest of Huntley, MT.] on Stard. Side
|N. 20o W.
||to a low Clift on the Lard. Side passed 3
|N. 25o E.
||to the head of an Island in the Stard. Bend
passed for islands
|N. 15o W.
||to a low black bluff on the Lard. Side, haveing
passed a large Brook [Crooked Creek entering the Yellowstone a few miles northeast
of Huntley.] on the Lard Side
|N. 60o E.
||to a Lard point passing a Bluff on the Lard
|N. 45o E.
||to a point of woodland on the Stard. Side
opposite to a bluff bank which we passed under on the Lard Side passed a large brook at
1/4 of a mile, one at 5 and one at 7 and a Small one at 8 1/2 miles all on the Lard Side. [The
first two are apparently Razor and Cabin creeks.] passed 6 islands and
Several Stoney bars
|N. 65o E.
||to a Stard. Bend passing the head of an island
at 2 miles
||to a Larboard Bluff below the island
|N 70o E.
||to a Bluff on the Lard. Side which has Sliped
into the river and filled up 1/2 of the river on the top a yellowish Gritty Stone of
20 feet thick [Clark's "Tumbling Bluff".]
|| 2 1/2
|N. 80o E.
||to the point of a Bluff on the Lard Side
passed Several Stoney bars
||to a rugid bluff latterly Slipped into the river
on the Lard Side opposit to the head of an island
||to the Lower point of an island on Stard. Side
|N. 62o E.
||to the point of a Lard. Bluff passed the
||to Pompys Tower. 200 feet high. 400
paces around from the top of which the rocky mountains Covered with Snow can be Seen S W.
also two low mountains one S. 15 E. and the other N. 55o W this rock is
Situated 250 paces from the water on the Stard Side of the river, and opposit to a large
Brook on the Lard Side I call baptiests Creek
|N. 66o E.
||to high Clift point of rocks on the Lard Side
passed a point of the Clift at 2 miles and 2 Stoney bars or islands
|S. 60o E.
||to the enterance of Shannon Creek 22 yds
wide on the Stard. Side passed the Lard Clifts at 3 Miles passed Several Stoney bars
July 25, 1806
we procd. on to portage Creek [Belt Creek] met the other
men returning. we formed a Camp at portage Creek left 2 men one to
Cook & one to hunt and returnd. to willow Creek hard rain comd. about noon
and continued the remainder part of the day, but did not Stop us from our urgent labours.
halted as much as we were able to help the horses as the place So amazeing
muddy & bad. in the evening we got to portage Creek and Camped.
rained verry hard and we having no Shelter Some of the men and myself turned
over a canoe & lay under it others Set up by the fires. the
water run under us and the ground was covred with water. the portage River raises fast
Collins killed a buffaloe and a brarow.--
July 25, 1806
This was a fine morning with very heavy dew. The party set out early to Portage river
with the canoe; and in a short time the men with the other waggon came back; I was by this
time so much recovered as to be able to return with the party for another canoe; which is
all we will bring over, as the other is very heavy and will be sufficient to carry
ourselves and baggage down the Missouri. About 2 o'clock the waggons met at Willow creek,
when we had another very heavy shower of rain accompanied with thunder and lightning. At 3
o'clock we set out with both the waggons and 2 canoes to Portage river; it rained on us
hard all the way, and the road was so muddy that the horses were not able to haul the
loads, without the assistance of every man at the waggons. At night we arrived at Portage
river [Belt Creek, a mile or so above its mouth on the Missouri River.],
and then had four canoes there safe.