|July 07, 1806
Set out at 7 A.M.--
|N. 75 E.
||M. with the road through a level beatifull
plain on the North side of the river much timber in the bottoms hills also timbered with
pitch pine. no longleafed pine since we left the praries of the knobs. crossed
a branch of the creek 8 yds. wid. on which we encamped at 1/4 m. [Probably Keep
Cool Creek.] also passed a creek 15 yd. wide at 1/4 further. [Probably
Spring Creek, not shown on any expedition map.] <crossed the main
||ms.-- passed the main creek [Landers
Fork Blackfoot River. Coues wrote "Lander's Fork," a name bestowed in the 1850s
on the stream.] at a mile 1/2 and kept up it on the wright hand side through
handsom plain bottoms to the foot of the ridge which we ascended the main stream boar N W
& W. as far as I could see it a wright hand fork falls into this creek at
1 M. above the commencement of this course. [By "wright hand fork" Lewis
may mean Blackfoot River, the main stream.]
|N. 15 E.
||m. over <a> two ridges and again
striking the wrighthand fork [The "wrighthand fork" is now Alice Creek.
It is shown on Lewes's sketch map as joining Landers Fork to become the Blackfoot River.]
at 4 ms. then continued up it on the left hand side much appearance of beaver many dams.
bottoms not wide and covered with low willow and grass. halted to dine at a
large beaver dam the hunters killed 3 deer and a fawn. deer are remarkably
plenty and in good order. Reubin Fields wounded a moos deer [Moose, Alces
alces, not a new species.] this morning near our camp. my dog much
|N. 10 E.
||m. up the same creek on the east side through a
handsome narrow plain.
|N 45 E.
||m. passing the dividing ridge betwen the
waters of the Columbia and Missouri rivers at 1/4 of a mile. [Lewis crossed Hard
Scrabble Creek near its mouth with Alice Creek and then went up Alice Creek, which he also
crossed. He and his party then went over the Continental Divide through Lewis and Clark
Pass (Clark was never there). The pass is about seventeen miles northeast of present
Lincoln; it is shown as "Gap" on Lewis's sketch map. In crossing it the party
returned to the territory of the United States. This was the route that the Hidatsas had
told them of at Fort Mandan, which they had missed on the westward journey. However, had
they not followed the Missouri and its forks to their headwaters, they would have missed
the Shoshones and would have been deprived of the services of Old Toby and the use of the
Indian horses, which would have greatly decreased their changes of making it across the
Rocky Mountains.] from this gap which is low and an easy ascent on the W.
side the fort mountain [Square Butte; See July 15, 1805.] bears North
Easst, and appears to be distant about 20 Miles. the road for one and 3/4 miles
desends the hill and continues down a branch.
|N. 20 W.
||ms. over several hills and hollows along the
foot of the mountain hights passing five small rivulets running to the wright. saw
some sighn of buffaloe early this moring in the valley where we encamped last evening from
which it appears that the buffaloe do sometimes penetrate these mountains a few miles.
we saw no buffaloe this evening. but much old appearance of dung, tracks
&c. encamped on a small run under the foot of the mountain. [About three miles
east of Table Mountain.] after we encamped Drewyer killed two beaver
and shot third which bit his knee very badly and escaped
July 07, 1806
We had a wet night, and a cloudy morning. Continued our journey early along the valley,
which is very beautiful with a great deal of clover in its plains. Having gone about five
miles, we crossed the main branch of the river [Landers Fork Blackfoot River],
which comes in from the north; and up which the road goes about five miles futher and then
takes over a hill towards the east. [Northeast toward Silver King Mountain and
Lewis and Clark Pass.] On the top of this hill there are two
beautiful ponds, of about three acres in size. We passed over the ridge and struck a small
stream [Alice Creek.], which we at first thought was of the head waters
of the Missouri, but found it was not. Here we halted for dinner, and after staying three
hours, proceeded on four miles up the branch, when we came to the dividing ridge [Lewis
and Clark Pass, approximately 17 miles northeast of Lincoln, Mt.] between the
waters of the Missouri and Columbia; passed over the ridge and came to a fine spring the
waters of which run into the Missouri [From the headwaters of the Big Blackfoot
River, Lewis went to the headwaters of the Medicine River]. We then kept down
this stream or branch about a miile; then turned a north course along the side of the
dividing ridge for eight miles, passing a number of small streams or branches, and at 9
o'clock at night encamped [Approximately three miles east of Table Mountain.]
after coming thirty two miles [Reuben Field wounded a moose near camp the morning
of the 7th., agitating Lewis's dog Seaman].
July 07, 1806
This morning our horses were very much Scattered; I Sent out men in every direction in
serch of them. they brought all except 9 by 6 oClock and informed me that they could
not find those 9: I then ordered 6 men to take horses and go different directions and at a
greater distance. those men all returned by 10 A.M. and informed me that they had
circles in every direction to 6 or 8 miles around Camp and could not See any Signs of
them, that they had reasons to believe that the indians had stolen them in the course of
the night, and founded their reasons on the quallity of the horses, all being the most
valuable horses we had, and Several of them so attached to horses of inferior quallity
which we have they could not be Seperated from each other when driveing with their loads
on in the course of the day. I thought it probable that they might be stolen by Some
Skulking Shoshones, but as it was yet possible that they may have taken our back rout or
rambled to a greater distance I deturmined to leave a Small party and hunt for them to
day, and proceed on with the main party and all the baggage to the Canoes, raise them out
of the water and expose them to the sun to dry by the time this party Should overtake me.
I left Sergt. Ordway, Shannon, Gibson Collins & Labeech with directions to hunt
this day for the horses without they Should discover that the Inds. had taken them into
the Mountains, and prosue our trail &c. at 1/2 past 10 AM I set out and
proceeded on through an open rich vally crossing four large Creeks [Clark traveled
southeasterly, across the Big Hole Valley, crossing Rock, Lake, Big Swamp, and Little Lake
creeks, all affluents from the west of the Big Hole River.] with extensive low
and mirey bottoms, and a Small river [The Big Hole River, the captain's
"Wisdom River."] keeping the Course I had set out on S. 56o
E after crossing the river I kept up on the N E. side, Sometimes folowing an old
road which frequently disappeared, at the distance of 16 miles we arived at a Boiling
Spring [East of Jackson, MT on Warm Spring Creek.] Situated about 100
paces from a large Easterly fork of the small river in a leavel open vally plain and
nearly opposit & E. of the 3 forks of this little river which heads in the Snowey
Mountains to the S E. & S W of the Springs. this Spring contains a very
considerable quantity of water, and actually blubbers with heat for 20 paces below where
it rises. it has every appearance of boiling, too hot for a man to endure his hand in it 3
seconds. I directt Sergt. Pryor and John Shields to put each a peice of meat in the water
of different Sises. the one about the size of my 3 fingers cooked dun in 25 minits the
other much thicker was 32 minits before it became sufficiently dun. This water boils up
through some loose hard gritty Stone. a sittle sulferish [Jackson Hot
Spring.] after takeing dinner and letting our horses graize 1 hour and a
half we proceeded on Crossed this easterly branch and up on the N. Side of this middle
fork 9 miles crossed it near the head of an Easterly Side of which we encamped near some
butifull [NB: Springs] which fall into Willards Creek. [Clark
crossed Warm Spring Creek and went southeasterly up Governor Creek and Bull Creek, roughly
parallel to Highway 278. After passing Bull Creek he went east through Big Hole Pass,
still near the path of the modern highway, and once over the pass, camped near the head of
Divide Creek, the upper portion of Lewis and Clark's "Willards Creek."] I
directed that the ramblling horses should be hobbled, and the Sentinal to examine the
horses after the moon rose. <much> Emence beaver sign.
Course distance &c. July 7th
|S. 56o E
||to the boiling hot Spring 1/2 mile Easterly of
the three upper forks of wisdom river near a large Creek from the East passed 4
large Creek from the Snow mountains on my right and a small river at 12 miles bottoms
estensive & wet
|S 45o E
||on the < E> S E. Side of the middle fork
|N. 50o E
||to the Gap of a mountain crossing a Small branch
at 2 Miles from the left and Encamped
This extensive vally surround[ed] with [mountains]
covered with snow is extreemly fertile covered esculent plants &c and the
Creeks which pass through it contains emence numbers of beaver &c. I now take my
leave of this butifull extensive vally which I call the hot spring Vally, and behold one
less extensive and much more rugid on Willards Creek for near 12 miles in length.
remarkable Cold night.
July 07, 1806
we went out in the plain eairly to look up our horses. found all except
nine hunted in all directions for them could not find them.
So Capt. Clark directed me to Stay with 4 men to hunt this day for them.
about 9 A m Capt. Clark and the rest of the party set out to go to canoe
deposite. [Clark continued southeasterly to Jackson then turned more easterly and
passed through the Big Hole Pass and camped near there.] I and the 4
men [Shannon, Gibson, Collins and Labiche] went out in different
directions to look for the 9 horses I and labuiche went up a valley which led
in the mountn. towards the ShoShones nation. got on the track of the horses
and followed it on untill towards evening and found them still going on an Indn. road.
we turned them back to the last nights Camp. the other 3 men had
got back their also. we hobled the horses and Camped here.[On Moose
Creek] had several Showers of rain & Thunder in the course of