July 04, 1806
Meriwether Lewis

An Indian arrived alone from the West side of the mountains. [According to Lewis's next entry a "Pallote pellow." Possibly a Palouse Indian, but more likely Nez Perce. However, this is the first mention of any Indians referred to by this name.]  he had pursued and overtook us here.  sent out the hunters early to kill some meat to give the indians as they would not go with us further and I was unwilling after they service they had rendered to send them away without a good store of provision.  they are going down Clark's River in surch of the Shalees their <relations> friends, and from thence intend returning by this rout home again, they fleesed their meat informed us that they should dry it and leave it for their homeward journey.--  Set out at 12.  had killed no deer.

N. 75 E   5 M.  passed a large creek 15 yds wide at four miles [Rattlesnake Creek.] and entered the mountain  passed this creek at one mile on which we were encamped.  open plain  <narrow> wide bottom to the river
S. 75 E.   3 M.  along the north side of the river   bottoms widens a prairie <passed a small rapids>
N 45 E   1 m.  passing a small branch at the extremity of this cors [Marshall Creek. They were passing through the northen part of present Missoula, on the north side of the Clark Fork River. The last part of the route was along what later became Mullan Road and eventually Broadway Street through Missoula.]
S. 45 E   1 M. to the forks of the east branch of Clark's River [The junction of Blackfoot River and the Clark Fork River, east of Missoula.]  a handsom wide plain below on the S. side
S East   8 M. up the buffaloe road river or Co-kah-lah-, ishkit river [Lewis went northeasterly up Blackfoot River.] through a timbered country, mountians high rocky and but little bottoms.  land poor--   encamped in a handsom high timbered bottom near the river where there was fine grass killed grown squirrel of speceis different from any I had seen

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July 04, 1806
Meriwether Lewis

I arrose early this morning and sent out Drewyer and the Fieldses to hunt.  at 6. A.M. a man of the Pallote pellows arrived from the West side of the Rocky mountains; he had pursued us a few days after our departure and overtook us at this place; he proved to be the same young man who had first attempted to pass the rocky mountains early in June last when we lay on the Kooskooske and was obliged to relingquish the enterprize in consequence of the debth and softness of the snow.  I gave a shirt a handkercheif and a small quantity of ammunition to the indians.  at half after eleven the hunters returned from the chase unsuccessfull.  I now ordered the horses saddled smoked a pipe with these friendly people and at noon bid them adieu.  they had cut the meat which I gave them last evening thin and exposed it in the sun to dry informing me that they should leave it in this neighbourhood untill they returned as a store for their homeword journey.   it is worthy of remark that these people were about to return by the same pass by which they had conducted us through the difficult part of the Rocky Mountains, altho they were about to decend Clark's river several days journey in surch of the Shale's their relations [The Salish ("Shale's"), or Flatheads, were not linguistically or culturally related to the Nez Perce. However, they were close allies, camped together for extended periods, and undoubtedly intermarried.], a circumstance which to my mind furnishes sufficient evidence that there is not so near or so good a rout to the plains of Columbia by land along that river as that which we came. the several war routs of the Minetarees which fall into this vally of Clark's river concenter at traveller's rest beyond which point they have never yet dared to venture in pursuit of the nations beyond the mountains.  all the nations also on the west side of the mountain with whome we are acquainted inhabiting the waters of Lewis's river & who visit the plains of the Missouri pass by this rout.  these affectionate people our guides betrayed every emmotion of unfeigned regret at seperating from us; they said that they were confidint that the Pahkees [The Shoshone term probably refers to the tribe's enemies, including Blackfeet, Arahahoes, Atsinas, and Assiniboines.], (the appellation they give the Minnetares) would cut us off.  the first 5 miles of our rout was through a part of the extensive plain in which we were encamped, we then entered the mountains with the East fork of Clark's river through a narrow confined pass on it's N. side continuing up that river five ms. further to the entrance of the Cokahlahishkit R [Blackfoot River.] which falls in on the N.E. side, is 60 yds. wide deep and rapid.  the banks bold not very high but never over flow.  the East fork below its junction with this stream is 100 yds. wide and above it about 90.  the water of boath are terbid but the East branch much the most so; their beds are composed of sand and gravel; the East fork possesses a large portion of the former.  neither of those streams are navigable in consequence of the rapids and shoals which obstruct their current.  thus far a plain or untimbered country bordered the river which near the junction of these streams spread into a handsome level plain of no great extent; the hills were covered with long leafed pine and fir.  I now continued my rout up the N. side of the Cokahlahishkit river through a timbered country for 8 miles and encamped in a handsom bottom on the river where there was an abundance of excelence grass for our horses.  the evening was fine, air pleasent and no musquetoes.  a few miles before we encamped I killed a squirrel of the speceis common to the Rocky Mountains and a ground squirrel of a speceis which I had never before seen [Probably Richardson's Red Squirrel; See February 24 & 25, 1806.], I preserved the skins of both of these animals.

Courses and distances July 4th 1806.

S. 75o E.   3 M. a long the N. side of the river, at 2 Ms. the bottom widens into a handsome prarie.  river 110 yds. wide.
N. 45 E.   1 M. through a high plain, passed a small branch at the extremity of this course.
S. 45 E.   1 M. through a low leavel prarie to the entrance of the Cokahlahishkit river falling in on the N. side 60 yds. wide deep and rapid not navigable in consequence of the obstruction rocks rapid &c.
East   8 M. up the north side of the Cokahlah-ishkit R. through a timbered country, mountins high and rocky.  river bottoms narrow and land poor.  encamped at the extremity of this course on the bank of the river in a handsom timbered bottom. [At this location in Lewis's journal is the phrase "a Suplement to Come in here enclosed," apparently in Clark's hand.  Following are several blank pages into which Lewis apparently intended to fill the events of July 5-14, 1805.]

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July 04, 1806
Patrick Gass

We had a beautiful morning and waited here some time in order to have a morning hunt, as our guides intend to return, and we wish to give them a plentiful supply of provisions to carry them back over the mountains. While our hunters were out a young Indian came to our camp, who had crossed the mountains after us. At 10 o'clock our hunters came in, but had not killed any thing.  We were, however, able to furnish them with two deer and an half, from those that were killed yesterday. We then gave them some presents and took a friendly leave of them: and it is but justice to say, that the whole nation to which they belong [Nez Perces], are the most friendly, honest, and ingenuous people that we have seen in the course of our voyage and travels. After taking our farewell of these good hearted, hospitable and obliging sons of the west, we proceeded on up Isquet-co-qual-la through a hansome prairie of about 10 miles, after which the hills come close on the river, on both sides, and we had a rough road to pass. Having made 18 miles we encamped [Approximately eight miles above its mouth from the Clark Fork, on the north side.] for the night; where the country is very mountainous on both sides of the river, which runs nearly east and west, and is a deep rapid stream about 80 yards wide.

July 04, 1806
William Clark

I order three hunters to Set out early this morning to hunt & kill some meat and by 7 A.M. we Collected our horses took braekfast and Set out   proceeded on up the Vally on the West Side of Clarks river crossing three large deep and rapid Creeks, and two of a Smaller Size to a Small branch in the Spurs of the mountain and dined. [Clark is moving south on the west side of the Bitterroot River.  Among the streams crossed would be Blodgett, Canyon, Sawtooth, Roaring Lion, and Lost Horse creeks.]    the last Creek or river which we pass'd was So deep and the water So rapid that Several of the horses were Sweped down Some distance and the Water run over Several others which wet Several articles.  after Crossing this little river, I observed in the road the tracks of two men whome I prosume is of the Shoshone nation.  our hunters joined us with 2 deer in tolerable order.  on the Side of the Hill near the place we dined Saw a gange of Ibex or big horn animals I Shot at them running and missed.   This being the day of the decleration of Independence of the United States and a Day commonly Scelebrated by my Country I had every disposition to Selebrate this day and therefore halted early and partook of a Sumptious Dinner of a fat Saddle of Venison and Mush of Cows (roots) after Dinner we proceeded on about one mile to a very large Creek [Possibly Rock Creek.] which we assended Some distance to find a foard to cross    in crossing this creek Several articles got wet, the water was So Strong, alth' the debth was not much above the horses belly, the water passed over the backs and loads of the horses.  those Creeks are emensely rapid has great decnt    the bottoms of the Creek as well as the low lands on each Side is thickly covered with large Stone.  after passing this Creek I inclined to the left and fell into the road on which we had passed down last fall near the place we had dined on the 7th of Sept. and continued on the road passing up on the W. Side of Clark's river 13 miles to the West fork of Sd. river and Encamped on an arm of the same [Clark camped on the north side of the West Fork Bitterroot River near its junction with the Bitterroot River. It is approximately five miles northwest of the camp of September 6, 1805.]   I Sent out 2 men to hunt, land 3 in Serch of a foard to pass the river.  at dark they all returned and reported that they had found a place that the river might be passed but with Some risque of the loads getting wet   I ordered them to get up their horses and accompany me to those places &c.  our hunters killed 4 deer to day.  we made 30 Ms. to day on a course nearly South   Vally from 8 to 10 mes. wide.  contains a good portion of Pitch pine.  we passed three large deep rapid Creeks this after noon [Probably Rock, Tin Cup, and Chaffin creeks.]

July 04, 1806
John Ordway

a fair morning.   2 of our hunters went on eairly a head.   we took an eairly breakfast, and proceed. on through a large plain & groves of pitch pine where the hunters had killed 2 deer   we took the meat and proceed on    crossed Several creeks one so large it Swam Some of our horses. [South on the west side of the Bitterroot River]   about 12 we Saw a large flock of mountn. Sheep or big horn animels.   they run so near us that Some of the men fired at them. Shortly after we halted at a branch to dine.  dined and proceeded on without finding the road.   as we cannot ford the river yet.    towards evening one of the hunters killed a deer. Soon after we Camped [On the north side of West Fork Bitterroot River, near its junction with the Bitterroot] near the forks of the creek.  one of the hunters killed a fat buck this evening.