June 30, 1806
Meriwether Lewis

We dispatched Drewyer and J. Fields early this morning to hunt on the road and indeavour to obtain some meat for us.  just as we had prepared to set out at an early hour a deer came in to lick at these springs and one of our hunters killed it; this secured us our dinners, and we proceeded down the creek sometimes in the bottoms and at other times on the top or along the steep sides of the ridge to the N. of the Creek.   at one mile from the springs we passed a stout branch of the creek on the north side and at noon having travelled 13 ms. we arrived at the entrance of a second Northern branch of the creek [Grave Creek.] where we had nooned it on the 12th of Septr. last.  here we halted, dined and graized our horses.  while here Sheilds took a small tern [The meaning of the work "tern" is unclear. It may mean nothing more than a reference to Shields possibly having taken the road which "turns off to the wright".] and killed a deer.  at this place a road turns off to the wright which the indians informed us leads to Clarks river [The Clark Fork River, near Alberton, Montana.] some distance below where there is a fine extensive vally in which the Shalees or Ootslashshoots sometimes reside. in descending the creek this morning on the steep side of a high hill my horse sliped with both his hinder feet out of the road and fell, I also fell off backwards and slid near 40 feet down the hill before I could stop myself such was the steepness of the declivity; the horse was near falling on me in the first instance but fortunately recovers and  we both escaped unhirt. I saw a small grey squirrel [Probably Richardson's Red Squirrel, Tamiasciurus hunsonicus richardsoni. See February 24 & 25, 1806.] today much like those of the Pacific coast only that the belly of this was white. I also met with the plant in blume which is sometimes called the lady's slipper or mockerson flower. [Mountain Lady's Slipper, Cypripedium montanum, a beautiful but rare species that was unknown to science at this time.]   it is in shape and appearance like ours only that the corolla is white, marked with small veigns of pale red longitudinally on the inner side.  after dinner we resumed our march.  soon after seting out Sheilds killed another deer and in the course of the evening we picked up three others which Drewyer had killed along the road making a total of 6 today.  Deer are very abundant in the neighbourhood of travellers rest of both speceis [Mule Deer and the White-tailed Deer, Odocoileus virginianus.], also some bighorns [Bighorn Sheep, Ovis canadensis.] and Elk.  a little before sunset we arrived at our old encampment on the south side of the creek a little above it's entrance into Clark's river. [Their old Travelers' Rest camp of September 9-11, 1805; it lies on the south side of Lolo Creek, just south of the present town of Lolo, about two miles up the creek from the Bitterroot River.]  here we encamped with a view to remain two days in order to rest ourselves and horses & make our final arrangements for seperation.  we came 19 ms. after dinner the road being much better than it has been since we entered the mountains.  we found no appearance of the Ootslashshoots having been here lately. the indians express much concern for them and apprehend that the Minnetares of fort de Prarie have distroyed them in the course of the last winter and spring, and mention the tracks of the bearfoot Indians which we saw yesterday as an evidence of their being much distressed.--  our horses have stood the journey supprisingly well, most of them are yet in fine order, and only want a few days rest to restore them perfectly.--

Courses and estimated distances from the quawmash Flats on the West side of Rocky Mountains to Travellers rest.--

  ms.

East--   11 To Collins's Creek 25 yds. wide, passing a small prarie at 9 ms. road hilly, thickly timbered.
N. 45o E.   13 to the crossing of Fish Creek 10 yds. wide passing a small creek at 6 ms.
N. 75o E.   9 to a small branch of hungry Creek.  the road passing along a ridge with much fallen timber.  some snow at the extremity of this course.
N. 22 1/2 E.   5 to the head of the main branch of hungry Creek.   road hilly, some snow.
N. 75 E.   3 down hungry Creek on it's Noth side, passing 2 small branches on it's N. side, the lst at 1/2 m and the 2nd at 1 1/2 ms. further.
N. 75 E.   6 still continuing on the N. side of the creek to the foot of the mountain, passing 3 north branches and 1 South branch of the Crek.
N. 45 E.   3 to the summit of the mountain where we deposited our baggage on the 17th inst.
N. 45 E.   15 to an open prarie on the side of a mountain having kept the dividing ridge between the Waters of the Kooskooske and Chopunnish rivers.
N. 45o E.   28 to an open prarie on the South Side of a mountain, having still kept the same dividing ridge mentioned in the last Course, though you ascend many steep mountains and decend into many deep hollows.
East--   3 to an extemity of a ridge where we decend to a deep hollow.  much fallen timber caused in the first instance by fire and more recently by a storm from S.W.
N. 45o E.   10 Along a high snowey ridge to an open hillside of considerable Extent passing the road at 4 1/2 ms. which turns off to the right and leads by the fishery at the entrance of Colt Creek.
N. 45o E.   12 To the quawmash flatts at the head of a branch of the Kooskooske, passing the Kooskoske 35 yd. wide at 5 miles.  from hungry Creek to this river the road may be said to be over snow as so small a proportion of it is distitute of it.  after passing this river the road dose not agin ascend to the snowy hights.  at 7 ms. on this course again fell into the road which leads by the fishery about 4 ms. <from> above the mouth of Quawmash Creek.
North--   4 to the Hotspring Creek on the main branch of travellers rest.
N. 20o E.   3 to the warm or hot Springs down the N. side of the Creek.
N. 20o E.   3 down the creek passing a Northern branch 3 yds. wide at 1 M. also the Creek itself twice a short distance below the Northern bran
N. 45oE.   10 along the North side of the creek to the entrance of a N. branch of the same 8 yds. wide.  a road leads up this branch.
N. 60o E.   9 down the N. side of travellers rest creek to the prarie of the Creek and the Vally of Clark's R.
East--   9  to our encampment on the S side of travelers rest, passing the creek 1 M. above and 2 from it's mouth
Total 156

[The table above appears in Lewis's journal in the midst of his entry from July 1, 1806. It covers the journey from Weippe Prairie to Travelers' Rest, June 24-30, and so is placed on the last date of that trip. ]

June 30, 1806
Meriwether Lewis

[Weather Table Remarks - Both captains have remarks in the margins of their weather tables and separately.  Lewis's version appears here, but there are some significant variations in Clark's remarks that are noted.]

1st about dark last evening had a slight rain from a heavy thunder cloud which passed to the E & N. E. of us.
2nd have slept comfortably for several nights under one blankett ony. The river from sunrise untill 10 A.M. yesterday raised 1 1/2 inches; from that [t]ime untill dark fell 4 1/2, and in the course of the last night raised again 8 Inches as stated in the diary.  the Indians inform us that the present rise of the river is the greatest which it annually takes, and that when the water now subsides to about the hight it was when we arrived here the mountains we be passable.   I have no doubt but that the melting of the mountain snows in the begining of June is what causes the annual inundation of the lower portion of the Missouri from the 1st to the Middle of July.--
3d The weather has been much warmer for five days past than previously, particularly the mornings and nights--
4th rained greater part of last night but fell in no great quantity-- yesterday the water was at it's greatest hight at noon, between which and dark it fell 15 inches and in the course of the night raised 1 1/2 inches [The rest of this sentence is missing in Clark's version; he resumes with "from the indians."] as stated in the diary.  from the indian information the river will now subside and may therefore be said to have been at it's greatest annual hight on the 3rd inst. at noon.--
5th last night was colder than usual but no frost.--   the river fell 3 1/2 inches in the course of the day [The rest of this sentence is missing in Clark's version; he resumes with "this fluctuating state."] and raised 4 I. last night as [s]tated in the diary.  this fluctuating state of the river no doubt is caused by the influence of the sun in the course of the day on the snows of the mountains; the accession of water thus caused in the day dose not reach us untill night when it produces a rise in the river.--  The wild rose is in blume. the river fell 10 Ins. in the course of this day.
6th in the course of the last night the river raised a little but fell by morning 1 inch lower than what it stood at last evening.  the seven bark and the yellow vining honeysuckle are just in blume.  a few of the does have produced their young. Strawberries [Either Wild Strawberry, Fragaria virginiana, or Woodland Strawberry, F. vesca.] ripe near the river-- [In his marginal remarks Clark writes, "hot Sultery day." In his separate remarks there is no sentence about strawberries.]
7th rain but slight both last evening and today.   but little hail tho' large.  The river fell three inches last night and 7 yesterday.  The goose berries [See June 10, 1806.] fully grown also the servis berry.
8th river fell 8 In. in the course of yesterday   7 last night
9th river fell 9 In. yesterday. [Clark adds "& 3 1/2 last night."]
10th do   fell 5 1/2 in. couse of yesterday [In his marginal remarks Clark has "R. fell 5 1/2 ins: do. & <2?> 1 ins: last night." "Do." (ditto) refers to corresponding word "yesterday" in the remarks of June 9. In his separate remarks Clark says, "The river fell 1 inch last night and I 5 1/2 yesterday." He has no sentence about the data on the river ceasing and resumes with "it appears."]    having left the river today I could not longer keep it's state; it appears to be falling fast and will probably in the course of a few days be as low as when we first arrived there.  it is now about 6 feet lower than it has been. [Here Clark adds, "left the river and proceeded the quawmash flatts."]
11th at the quawmash Flats [The marginal remark appears only in Clark's journal.]
12th slight sprinkle of rain in the forepart of the night.--
13th The days for several past have been warm, the Musquetoes troublesome
15th it began to rain at 7 A.M. and contined by showers untill 5 P.M. [Clark adds, "we Set out on the rocky mountains."]
16th on the tops of the hills the dog tooth violet is just in bloom  grass about 2 inches high  small Huckkleberry just puting fourth it's leaves &c. [Clark has no remarks for the day.]
17th rained slightly a little after sunset  air cool.  rained from 1 to 3 P.M. [Clark adds, "assend a mtn. Snow 15 feet deep on top."]
18th obliged to return. [This marginal remark is found only in Clarks journal.]
19th returned to quawmash flats. [This marginal remark is found only in Clarks journal.]
22ed hard frost this morning tho' no ice.   Strawberries ripe at the Quawmash flats, they are but small and not abundant.--
23rd hard frost this morning  ice one eighth of an inch thick on standing water
24th Set out a 2d time from quawmash flats. [This marginal remark is found only in Clarks journal.]
25th rained a little last night, some showers in the evening.--
26th Slight rain in the fore part of the last evenng-- [Clark adds, "in the snowey region."]
27th Thunder shower last <the> evening   some rain a little before dark last evening. [The last two words are not in Clark's version.]
28th nights are cool in these mountains but no frost.
29th night cold  hard frost this morning.   the quawmash and Strawberries are just begining to blume at the flatts on the head of the Kooskooske. [The remainder of this remark appears only in Clark's separate comments.]  The Sun Flower [Any one of several species of Helianthus, otherwise not identifiable.] also just beginning to blume, which is 2 months later than those on the Sides of the Western Mountains near the falls of Columbia. [The Western Mountains would be the Cascade Range in Oregon and Washington; the falls are the Celilo Falls.]
30th We are here Situated on Clarks river in a Vally between two high mountains of Snow. [Lewis's marginal remark for this date consists of four repititions of "do" (ditto), indicating a repetition of the June 29 remark "night cold hard frost this morning." He has no other remarks for the day. The sentence is Clark's marginal remark. Clark continues with a lengthy passage in his separate remarks summarizing their experiences crossing the mountains on both the westbound and eastbound trips, "in passing of which we have experienced Cold and hunger of which I Shall ever remember." The passage serves to fill out a page in his journal which would otherwise have been largely blank. It has been placed with the daily journal entry of June 30, 1806.]

June 30, 1806
William Clark

We dispatched Drewyer & Jo. Field early this morning ahead to hunt. just as we had prepard. to set out at an early hour, a deer Came in to lick at the Springs and one of our hunters killed it; this Secired to us our dinner.  and we proceeded down the Creek, Sometimes in the bottoms and at other times on the tops or along the Steep Sides of the ridge to the N of the Creek.  at 1 1/2 m. we passd our encampment of the 12th of Septr. last.  we noon'd it at the place we had on the 12 of Septr. last  whiles here Shields killed a deer on the N. fork near the road.  here a rode leads up the N. fork and passed over to an extensive vally on Clarks river at Some distance down that river as our guids inform us.  after dinner we resumed our march.  Soon after Setting out Shields killed another deer, and we picked up 3 others which G Drewyer had killed along the road.  Deer are very abundant in the neighbourhood of travellers rest of boath Specis, also Some big horn and Elk.  a little before Sunset we arrived at our old encampment on the S. side of the Creek a little above its enterance into Clarks river.  here we Encamped with a view to remain 2 days in order to rest ourselves and horses and make our final arrangements for Seperation.  we found no signs of the Oatlashshots haveing been here lately.  the Indians express much Concern for them and apprehend that the Menetarries of Fort d Prar have destroyed them in the course of the last Winter and Spring, and mention the tracts of the bearfooted indians which we Saw yesterday as an evidence of their being much distressed--.  our horses have stood the journey Suprisinly well and only want a fiew days rest to restore them.

June 30, 1806
William Clark

[Weather Diary]

Descended the mountain to Travellers rest leaveing those tremendious mountanes behind us--in passing of which we have experiensed Cold and hunger of which I shall ever remember.  <as we> in passing over this part of the Rocky mountains from Clarks river, to the quawmash flats from the 14th to the 19 of Septr. 1805, we marched through Snow, which fell on us on the night of the 14th and nearly all the day of the 15 in addition to the [c]old rendered the air cool and the way difficuelt.  our food was horses of which we eate three.--  On our return we Set out from the quawmash flats on the 15th of June and commenes the assent of the rocky mountains; the air became cool and vigitation backward--  on the 16th we met with banks of Snow and in the hollars and maney of the hill Sides the Snow was from 3 to 4 feet deep and Scercely any grass vegitation just commencing where the Snow had melted--  on the 17th at meridian, the Snow became So deep in every derection from 6 to 8 feet deep we could not prosue the road <or direction,>  there being no grass for our horses we were obliged to return to the quawmash flatts to precure meat to live on as well as grass for our horses--   leaveing our baggage on the mountains We precured 5 Indians as pilots and on the 24th of June 1806 we again under took those Snowey regn.  on the 26th we with our baggage arived at an open plain serounded with Snow where there was grass for horses   on the 27th & 28th also passing over Snow 6 to 8 feet deep all the way  on 29th passed over but little Snow--  but saw great masses of it lying in different directions

June 30, 1806
John Ordway

a clear morning.  we got up our horses as usal R. Fields killed a deer near the hot Springs in Scite of the Camp.  two hunters went on a head.  we Set out   proceed. on a muddy bad road down the creek & over bad hills &C  about noon we halted to dine 12th Sept last [Grave Creek] Shields killed a deer.   we dined and proceed. on   took the meat of a deer which the hunters had killed. Shields killed another deer.  proceed. on to the bottoms or plains of travvellers rest creek   Drewyer had killed three deer, we wrode fast untill about Sunset at which time we arived at travvellers rest where we Camped the 9th & 10th of Sept. last.   we Camped [They camped at this site until July 3, 1806. This location is on the south side of Lolo Creek, about two miles up the creek from the Bitterroot River] here in order to Stay 2 or 3 days to refresh our horses and kill Some meat &C.   the Musquetoes verry troublesome here.--

June 30, 1806
Patrick Gass

We continued our march early and had a fine morning. When we were ready to set out, we saw a deer coming to a lick at the hot spring, and one of our hunters shot it. Two hunters went on ahead. At noon another went out a short time, and killed a fine deer. We halted for dinner at the same place, where we dined on the 12th of Sept. 1805, as we passed over to the Western ocean. After dinner we proceeded on, and on our way found three deer that one of the hunters had killed and left for us. In the evening we arrived at travellers'-rest creek, where the party rested two days last fall, and where it emptied into Flathead (called Clarke's) river, a beautiful river about one hundred yards wide at this place; but there is no fish of any consequence in it; and according to the Indian account, there are falls on it, between this place and its mouth, where it empties into the Columbia, six or seven hundred feet high; and which probably prevent the fish from coming up. Here we encamped and met with the hunters.