|June 30, 1806
We dispatched Drewyer and J. Fields early this morning to hunt on the road and
indeavour to obtain some meat for us. just as we had prepared to set out at an early
hour a deer came in to lick at these springs and one of our hunters killed it; this
secured us our dinners, and we proceeded down the creek sometimes in the bottoms and at
other times on the top or along the steep sides of the ridge to the N. of the Creek.
at one mile from the springs we passed a stout branch of the creek on the north
side and at noon having travelled 13 ms. we arrived at the entrance of a second Northern
branch of the creek [Grave Creek.] where we had nooned it on the 12th of
Septr. last. here we halted, dined and graized our horses. while here Sheilds
took a small tern [The meaning of the work "tern" is unclear. It may
mean nothing more than a reference to Shields possibly having taken the road which
"turns off to the wright".] and killed a deer. at this place a
road turns off to the wright which the indians informed us leads to Clarks river
[The Clark Fork River, near Alberton, Montana.] some distance below where there
is a fine extensive vally in which the Shalees or Ootslashshoots sometimes reside. in
descending the creek this morning on the steep side of a high hill my horse sliped with
both his hinder feet out of the road and fell, I also fell off backwards and slid near 40
feet down the hill before I could stop myself such was the steepness of the declivity; the
horse was near falling on me in the first instance but fortunately recovers and we
both escaped unhirt. I saw a small grey squirrel [Probably Richardson's Red
Squirrel, Tamiasciurus hunsonicus richardsoni. See February 24 & 25, 1806.]
today much like those of the Pacific coast only that the belly of this was white. I also
met with the plant in blume which is sometimes called the lady's slipper or mockerson
flower. [Mountain Lady's Slipper, Cypripedium montanum, a beautiful but
rare species that was unknown to science at this time.] it is in
shape and appearance like ours only that the corolla is white, marked with small veigns of
pale red longitudinally on the inner side. after dinner we resumed our march.
soon after seting out Sheilds killed another deer and in the course of the evening we
picked up three others which Drewyer had killed along the road making a total of 6
today. Deer are very abundant in the neighbourhood of travellers rest of both
speceis [Mule Deer and the White-tailed Deer, Odocoileus virginianus.],
also some bighorns [Bighorn Sheep, Ovis canadensis.] and
Elk. a little before sunset we arrived at our old encampment on the south side of
the creek a little above it's entrance into Clark's river. [Their old Travelers'
Rest camp of September 9-11, 1805; it lies on the south side of Lolo Creek, just south of
the present town of Lolo, about two miles up the creek from the Bitterroot River.]
here we encamped with a view to remain two days in order to rest ourselves and horses
& make our final arrangements for seperation. we came 19 ms. after dinner the
road being much better than it has been since we entered the mountains. we found no
appearance of the Ootslashshoots having been here lately. the indians express much concern
for them and apprehend that the Minnetares of fort de Prarie have distroyed them in the
course of the last winter and spring, and mention the tracks of the bearfoot Indians which
we saw yesterday as an evidence of their being much distressed.-- our horses have
stood the journey supprisingly well, most of them are yet in fine order, and only want a
few days rest to restore them perfectly.--
Courses and estimated distances from the quawmash Flats
on the West side of Rocky Mountains to Travellers rest.--
||To Collins's Creek 25 yds. wide, passing a small
prarie at 9 ms. road hilly, thickly timbered.
|N. 45o E.
||to the crossing of Fish Creek 10 yds. wide
passing a small creek at 6 ms.
|N. 75o E.
||to a small branch of hungry Creek. the
road passing along a ridge with much fallen timber. some snow at the extremity of
|N. 22 1/2 E.
||to the head of the main branch of hungry Creek.
road hilly, some snow.
|N. 75 E.
||down hungry Creek on it's Noth side, passing 2
small branches on it's N. side, the lst at 1/2 m and the 2nd at 1 1/2 ms. further.
|N. 75 E.
||still continuing on the N. side of the creek to
the foot of the mountain, passing 3 north branches and 1 South branch of the Crek.
|N. 45 E.
||to the summit of the mountain where we deposited
our baggage on the 17th inst.
|N. 45 E.
||to an open prarie on the side of a mountain
having kept the dividing ridge between the Waters of the Kooskooske and Chopunnish rivers.
|N. 45o E.
||to an open prarie on the South Side of a
mountain, having still kept the same dividing ridge mentioned in the last Course, though
you ascend many steep mountains and decend into many deep hollows.
||to an extemity of a ridge where we decend to a
deep hollow. much fallen timber caused in the first instance by fire and more
recently by a storm from S.W.
|N. 45o E.
||Along a high snowey ridge to an open hillside of
considerable Extent passing the road at 4 1/2 ms. which turns off to the right and leads
by the fishery at the entrance of Colt Creek.
|N. 45o E.
||To the quawmash flatts at the head of a branch
of the Kooskooske, passing the Kooskoske 35 yd. wide at 5 miles. from hungry Creek
to this river the road may be said to be over snow as so small a proportion of it is
distitute of it. after passing this river the road dose not agin ascend to the snowy
hights. at 7 ms. on this course again fell into the road which leads by the fishery
about 4 ms. <from> above the mouth of Quawmash Creek.
||to the Hotspring Creek on the main branch of
|N. 20o E.
||to the warm or hot Springs down the N. side of
|N. 20o E.
||down the creek passing a Northern branch 3 yds.
wide at 1 M. also the Creek itself twice a short distance below the Northern bran
||along the North side of the creek to the
entrance of a N. branch of the same 8 yds. wide. a road leads up this branch.
|N. 60o E.
||down the N. side of travellers rest creek to the
prarie of the Creek and the Vally of Clark's R.
||to our encampment on the S side of travelers
rest, passing the creek 1 M. above and 2 from it's mouth
[The table above appears in Lewis's journal in the midst of his entry from July
1, 1806. It covers the journey from Weippe Prairie to Travelers' Rest, June 24-30, and so
is placed on the last date of that trip. ]
June 30, 1806
[Weather Table Remarks - Both captains have remarks in the margins
of their weather tables and separately. Lewis's version appears here, but there are
some significant variations in Clark's remarks that are noted.]
||about dark last evening had a slight rain from a
heavy thunder cloud which passed to the E & N. E. of us.
||have slept comfortably for several nights under
one blankett ony. The river from sunrise untill 10 A.M. yesterday raised 1 1/2 inches;
from that [t]ime untill dark fell 4 1/2, and in the course of the last
night raised again 8 Inches as stated in the diary. the Indians inform us that the
present rise of the river is the greatest which it annually takes, and that when the water
now subsides to about the hight it was when we arrived here the mountains we be passable.
I have no doubt but that the melting of the mountain snows in the begining of June
is what causes the annual inundation of the lower portion of the Missouri from the 1st to
the Middle of July.--
||The weather has been much warmer for five days
past than previously, particularly the mornings and nights--
||rained greater part of last night but fell in no
great quantity-- yesterday the water was at it's greatest hight at noon, between which and
dark it fell 15 inches and in the course of the night raised 1 1/2 inches [The
rest of this sentence is missing in Clark's version; he resumes with "from the
indians."] as stated in the diary. from the indian information the
river will now subside and may therefore be said to have been at it's greatest annual
hight on the 3rd inst. at noon.--
||last night was colder than usual but no frost.--
the river fell 3 1/2 inches in the course of the day [The rest of this
sentence is missing in Clark's version; he resumes with "this fluctuating
state."] and raised 4 I. last night as [s]tated in the
diary. this fluctuating state of the river no doubt is caused by the influence of
the sun in the course of the day on the snows of the mountains; the accession of water
thus caused in the day dose not reach us untill night when it produces a rise in the
river.-- The wild rose is in blume. the river fell 10 Ins. in the course of this
||in the course of the last night the river raised
a little but fell by morning 1 inch lower than what it stood at last evening. the
seven bark and the yellow vining honeysuckle are just in blume. a few of the does
have produced their young. Strawberries [Either Wild Strawberry, Fragaria
virginiana, or Woodland Strawberry, F. vesca.] ripe near the
river-- [In his marginal remarks Clark writes, "hot Sultery day." In his
separate remarks there is no sentence about strawberries.]
||rain but slight both last evening and today.
but little hail tho' large. The river fell three inches last night and 7
yesterday. The goose berries [See June 10, 1806.] fully grown also
the servis berry.
||river fell 8 In. in the course of yesterday
7 last night
||river fell 9 In. yesterday. [Clark adds
"& 3 1/2 last night."]
||do fell 5 1/2 in. couse of yesterday
[In his marginal remarks Clark has "R. fell 5 1/2 ins: do. & <2?> 1
ins: last night." "Do." (ditto) refers to corresponding word
"yesterday" in the remarks of June 9. In his separate remarks Clark says,
"The river fell 1 inch last night and I 5 1/2 yesterday." He has no sentence
about the data on the river ceasing and resumes with "it appears."]
having left the river today I could not longer keep it's state; it appears to
be falling fast and will probably in the course of a few days be as low as when we first
arrived there. it is now about 6 feet lower than it has been. [Here Clark
adds, "left the river and proceeded the quawmash flatts."]
||at the quawmash Flats [The
marginal remark appears only in Clark's journal.]
||slight sprinkle of rain in the forepart of the
||The days for several past have been warm, the
||it began to rain at 7 A.M. and contined by
showers untill 5 P.M. [Clark adds, "we Set out on the rocky mountains."]
||on the tops of the hills the dog tooth violet is
just in bloom grass about 2 inches high small Huckkleberry just puting fourth
it's leaves &c. [Clark has no remarks for the day.]
||rained slightly a little after sunset air
cool. rained from 1 to 3 P.M. [Clark adds, "assend a mtn. Snow 15
feet deep on top."]
||obliged to return. [This marginal remark
is found only in Clarks journal.]
||returned to quawmash flats. [This
marginal remark is found only in Clarks journal.]
||hard frost this morning tho' no ice.
Strawberries ripe at the Quawmash flats, they are but small and not abundant.--
||hard frost this morning ice one eighth of
an inch thick on standing water
||Set out a 2d time from quawmash flats. [This
marginal remark is found only in Clarks journal.]
||rained a little last night, some showers in the
||Slight rain in the fore part of the last
evenng-- [Clark adds, "in the snowey region."]
||Thunder shower last <the> evening
some rain a little before dark last evening. [The last two words are not in
||nights are cool in these mountains but no frost.
||night cold hard frost this morning.
the quawmash and Strawberries are just begining to blume at the flatts on the head of the
Kooskooske. [The remainder of this remark appears only in Clark's separate
comments.] The Sun Flower [Any one of several species of Helianthus,
otherwise not identifiable.] also just beginning to blume, which is 2 months
later than those on the Sides of the Western Mountains near the falls of Columbia. [The
Western Mountains would be the Cascade Range in Oregon and Washington; the falls are the
||We are here Situated on Clarks river in a Vally
between two high mountains of Snow. [Lewis's marginal remark for this date
consists of four repititions of "do" (ditto), indicating a repetition of the
June 29 remark "night cold hard frost this morning." He has no other remarks for
the day. The sentence is Clark's marginal remark. Clark continues with a lengthy passage
in his separate remarks summarizing their experiences crossing the mountains on both the
westbound and eastbound trips, "in passing of which we have experienced Cold and
hunger of which I Shall ever remember." The passage serves to fill out a page in his
journal which would otherwise have been largely blank. It has been placed with the daily
journal entry of June 30, 1806.]
June 30, 1806
We dispatched Drewyer & Jo. Field early this morning ahead to hunt. just as we had
prepard. to set out at an early hour, a deer Came in to lick at the Springs and one of our
hunters killed it; this Secired to us our dinner. and we proceeded down the Creek,
Sometimes in the bottoms and at other times on the tops or along the Steep Sides of the
ridge to the N of the Creek. at 1 1/2 m. we passd our encampment of the 12th of
Septr. last. we noon'd it at the place we had on the 12 of Septr. last whiles
here Shields killed a deer on the N. fork near the road. here a rode leads up the N.
fork and passed over to an extensive vally on Clarks river at Some distance down that
river as our guids inform us. after dinner we resumed our march. Soon after
Setting out Shields killed another deer, and we picked up 3 others which G Drewyer had
killed along the road. Deer are very abundant in the neighbourhood of travellers
rest of boath Specis, also Some big horn and Elk. a little before Sunset we arrived
at our old encampment on the S. side of the Creek a little above its enterance into Clarks
river. here we Encamped with a view to remain 2 days in order to rest ourselves and
horses and make our final arrangements for Seperation. we found no signs of the
Oatlashshots haveing been here lately. the Indians express much Concern for them and
apprehend that the Menetarries of Fort d Prar have destroyed them in the course of the
last Winter and Spring, and mention the tracts of the bearfooted indians which we Saw
yesterday as an evidence of their being much distressed--. our horses have stood the
journey Suprisinly well and only want a fiew days rest to restore them.
June 30, 1806
Descended the mountain to Travellers rest leaveing those tremendious mountanes behind
us--in passing of which we have experiensed Cold and hunger of which I shall ever
remember. <as we> in passing over this part of the Rocky mountains from Clarks
river, to the quawmash flats from the 14th to the 19 of Septr. 1805, we marched through
Snow, which fell on us on the night of the 14th and nearly all the day of the 15 in
addition to the [c]old rendered the air cool and the way
difficuelt. our food was horses of which we eate three.-- On our return we Set
out from the quawmash flats on the 15th of June and commenes the assent of the rocky
mountains; the air became cool and vigitation backward-- on the 16th we met with
banks of Snow and in the hollars and maney of the hill Sides the Snow was from 3 to 4 feet
deep and Scercely any grass vegitation just commencing where the Snow had melted--
on the 17th at meridian, the Snow became So deep in every derection from 6 to 8 feet deep
we could not prosue the road <or direction,> there being no grass for our
horses we were obliged to return to the quawmash flatts to precure meat to live on as well
as grass for our horses-- leaveing our baggage on the mountains We precured 5
Indians as pilots and on the 24th of June 1806 we again under took those Snowey
regn. on the 26th we with our baggage arived at an open plain serounded with Snow
where there was grass for horses on the 27th & 28th also passing over Snow 6 to
8 feet deep all the way on 29th passed over but little Snow-- but saw great
masses of it lying in different directions
June 30, 1806
a clear morning. we got up our horses as usal R. Fields killed a deer near the
hot Springs in Scite of the Camp. two hunters went on a head. we Set out
proceed. on a muddy bad road down the creek & over bad hills &C about
noon we halted to dine 12th Sept last [Grave Creek] Shields killed a
deer. we dined and proceed. on took the meat of a deer which the
hunters had killed. Shields killed another deer. proceed. on to the bottoms or
plains of travvellers rest creek Drewyer had killed three deer, we wrode fast
untill about Sunset at which time we arived at travvellers rest where we Camped the 9th
& 10th of Sept. last. we Camped [They camped at this site until
July 3, 1806. This location is on the south side of Lolo Creek, about two miles up the
creek from the Bitterroot River] here in order to Stay 2 or 3 days to refresh our
horses and kill Some meat &C. the Musquetoes verry troublesome here.--
June 30, 1806
We continued our march early and had a fine morning. When we were ready to set out, we
saw a deer coming to a lick at the hot spring, and one of our hunters shot it. Two hunters
went on ahead. At noon another went out a short time, and killed a fine deer. We halted
for dinner at the same place, where we dined on the 12th of Sept. 1805, as we passed over
to the Western ocean. After dinner we proceeded on, and on our way found three deer that
one of the hunters had killed and left for us. In the evening we arrived at
travellers'-rest creek, where the party rested two days last fall, and where it emptied
into Flathead (called Clarke's) river, a beautiful river about one hundred yards wide at
this place; but there is no fish of any consequence in it; and according to the Indian
account, there are falls on it, between this place and its mouth, where it empties into
the Columbia, six or seven hundred feet high; and which probably prevent the fish from
coming up. Here we encamped and met with the hunters.